In the Pursuit of Gastronomic Truths

In the vast landscape of culinary journeys across Italy, few focus on the ethical aspects of gastronomy. Florence-based Italian chef and entrepreneur Edoardo Celadon, a long-time advisor to global food enthusiasts curious about authentic Italian gastronomy, has dedicated his career to uncovering and promoting Italy's deepest culinary truths. After consulting some of the industry's most relevant institutions, Celadon decided to share his insights through "Most of Italy," a boutique travel agency that offers curated journeys now accessible to anyone with an interest.

The concept of showcasing custodians of nature and authentic culinary traditions aligns with the growing demand from conscious travellers, making the "Most of Italy" proposal especially relevant.

As their website claims: "Wild animals, ancient plants, forgotten recipes, regenerated soil, rare agrarian delicacies, and endless flavour depth. Pure energies, connecting around a table. Meet real Italy, taste infinity."

Some of the experiences offered include a fine steak & wild game masterclass in Chianti, Italian heritage cooking classes with legendary cooks, and a fishermen's boat seafood lunch in Sardinia.

Last month, Most of Italy curated its first event in a series of dinners in collaboration with Relais Poggio Santi and its restaurant Il Sale. Each month, guest chefs create an ad hoc menu using produce from the Poggio Santi farm, working alongside the resident Japanese culinary duo Shimpei Moriyama and Sayuri Tanaka.

The choice of Relais Poggio ai Santi is truly spectacular and perfectly fits the "Most of Italy" narrative. Located in San Vincenzo, in the heart of the Etruscan Coast, the venue boasts a backdrop of the Tyrrhenian Sea and lush pine forests. Poggio ai Santi is also a farm committed to ethical agriculture. Since 1996, Il Poggio farm has stopped using chemical treatments and has received official certification from ICEA (Institute for Ethical and Environmental Certification). Freshly harvested vegetables and herbs from the garden, fields, and woods are used in the preparation of dishes and speciality drinks, from morning breakfasts and homemade desserts to after-dinner liqueurs and cocktails.

The Poggio Santi certified organic farm has been in use for 18 years. Located in an area of Tuscany with a rich cereal history, Il Poggio also cultivates ancient varieties such as Etruscan wheat and spelt, following the research and recommendations of industry experts. The property collaborates with the University of Pisa, the University of Florence, and the Seed Bank to preserve biodiversity and safeguard disappearing varieties. Thousands of rosemary plants create waves of blue flowers that colour the winter and nourish the bees. The property also raises chickens with full respect for animal welfare, ensuring a healthy and delicious product.

At Il Sale restaurant, chefs Shimpei and Sayuri honour the traditions of Tuscan coastal cuisine while boldly incorporating Japanese flavours and techniques. For their inaugural dinner, they were joined by Chef Tommaso Tonioni, the founder of the Arso project. Tonioni's approach to cuisine highlights forgotten ingredients and uses cooking techniques that involve an open flame. Through a series of pop-up events in Italy, Tonioni has dedicated himself to researching and showcasing the connection between chef and farmer, the process of raising animals according to ethical and sustainable principles, and the clever use of meats traditionally thought of as less desirable or more unusual.

Highlights from the inaugural dinner included grilled wild boar sausage with cuttlefish and citrus, farro focaccia with prawn head oil, and a trio of tartares: duck, tuna, and shrimp. From Il Sale, an opening trio of appetisers was served, with various types of rice filled with mackerel, assorted fish cuts, and sea urchin with marinated egg yolk.